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Food and memory

A Market Stall Remembered More Than the Meal Itself

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Photo: Hungarian family photo album, page 3 by Unknown authorUnknown author (Public domain), via Openverse

Sometimes what lingers in memory is not the meal eventually cooked but the market stall where the ingredients were originally bought earlier that same day. The particular vendor, the particular arrangement of produce, the specific sounds and smells of a shopping trip preceded the actual cooking by hours yet remained more vivid.

This is especially true of markets no longer accessible, left behind after a migration to somewhere entirely different from what came before. These markets are remembered in far more vivid detail than the countless meals they once supplied, perhaps because the market itself, unlike the food, cannot be recreated anywhere else.

Describing this remembered market, rather than the meal it eventually produced, often communicates more about what was truly lost in leaving a place. It captures an entire sensory world rather than a single dish drawn from within it, however delicious that dish once was to eat. Some places, it turns out, are simply harder to recreate than any dish that came from them.

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