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Food and memory

Dishes That Are Made Only Once a Year

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Photo: Aishti autunno 2010 by Av project (CC BY-SA 3.0), via Openverse

Certain family dishes are deliberately kept rare, cooked only on a single occasion each year without exception, by unspoken agreement. That scarcity is part of what gives them their real significance within the household over time and across generations. Made too often, the theory goes, the dish would lose the weight it currently carries as a marker of a particular day.

Waiting for that one occasion each year builds its own kind of quiet anticipation as the date slowly approaches on the calendar. The specific smell of the dish cooking becomes inseparable from the feeling of the day itself, so much so that neither can be experienced alone. Children who grow up with this rhythm often carry it forward without quite realising why they continue to do so.

They instinctively reserve the dish for its usual occasion long after they could easily cook it whenever they wanted to on any ordinary day. That restraint, however irrational it might seem from outside, feels like part of the recipe itself, inherited along with the ingredients.

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