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Food and memory

Substituting Ingredients and What Gets Lost in the Swap

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Photo: Hungarian family photo album, page 28 by Unknown authorUnknown author (Public domain), via Openverse

Every ingredient substitution, however necessary at the time, changes a dish slightly from what it was originally intended to taste like. The cumulative effect of many small swaps, this vegetable for that one, this grain for a more available alternative, adds up considerably. It can eventually produce a dish that tastes only distantly like the one it was meant to replace in the first place.

Cooks navigating a new country's markets often make these substitutions without much real choice in the matter, prioritising continuation over precision. They prioritise the dish's continued existence over its exact original flavour, a reasonable trade under difficult circumstances that most cooks accept. Something is always lost in the swap, even when the result remains genuinely delicious in its own right afterwards for everyone at the table.

Naming what has been substituted, rather than pretending the dish is unchanged, keeps the original version alive in memory for the next generation. Even as the everyday version drifts further from it, that small act of honesty honours both the past and the present kitchen equally.

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